Los Angles Times
    Friday, November 6, 1998
     
    OUTDOORS / PETE THOMAS
     
    Bodega's Big Squid Getting Lots of Ink
     
    By PETE THOMAS
     
    Calamari capital of the world?
     
    That may not be Bodega Bay's claim to fame, but the picturesque little
    coastal community north of San Francisco, like it or not, is swimming in
    squid. "People are having it as sashimi, they're steaming it, frying it,
    barbecuing it . . . they're even putting it on skewers," says Rick
    Powers, on whose boat they've been catching most of it.
     
    All this has put the 44-year-old captain and Bodega Bay Sportfishing
    Center in the spotlight, in part because these squid don't belong in
    that part of the world but mostly because they are truly a sight to
    behold, as unsightly as they might seem to some. California frequently
    gets the six-inch variety of squid, which are targeted by commercial
    seiners and used by recreational anglers as bait to catch such prized
    game fish as seabass and yellowtail.
     
    The squid Powers is catching, however, would have those fish for
    breakfast, and probably do from time to time. They measure up to eight
    feet and weigh up to 50 pounds, though most of those plopping onto the
    deck of the New Sea Angler are slightly smaller.
     
    Still, they're impressive enough to attract news crews from around the
    Bay Area. The outdoor media have been calling Powers weekly for updates.
    The squid have even piqued the interest of scientists, who hope to learn
    more about the complex nature of these intricate and mysterious
    creatures.
     
    A live specimen was brought to Bodega Marine Laboratory in September,
    but it died three days later and was donated to the Smithsonian
    Institute. Biologists at Steinhart Aquarium in San Francisco also are
    trying to obtain a live specimen to study. As for Powers, he's merely
    taking advantage of the presence of Dosidicus gigas, or jumbo squid, a
    species of cephalopod that belongs off the coast of South America, not
    Northern California. They occasionally stray as far north as Mexico and
    even cross into U.S. waters from time to time.
     
    But this is way beyond their range.
     
    Scientists theorize they were delivered courtesy of El Ni?o and
    deposited in the nutrient-rich depths of Bodega Canyon, a marine trench
    near a popular rockfishing haunt called Cordell Bank.
     
    They first were caught there last December--when water temperatures were
    eight to 10 degrees above normal--by commercial hook-and-line fishermen.
     
    Powers got word and ran out.
     
    "In 20 minutes, we caught nine of these giant squid," he recalls. "I had
    never seen any creature that looked like these things before."
     
    Then came the intense El Ni?o storms, which kept the fleet at bay for
    most of the rest of the winter and either displaced the squid or kept
    them down in the depths of the canyon, out of reach at 500-600 feet.
     
    In any event, they're still around, having resurfaced in late summer.
    And Powers, who has been fishing Bay Area waters since he was a child,
    is the only one really fishing for them.
     
    They emerge from the canyon periodically, he believes, to embark on
    feeding forays at or near the rockfishing grounds. They travel in such
    large schools that he is able to locate them fairly easily on his fish
    finder.
     
    "This year, as opposed to last year, we're metering them at mid-water,"
    he says. "Which is odd, because I've always heard that they're nocturnal
    feeders and stay in deep water during the day. But all we do is stop the
    boat, drop our lures down and that's it."
     
    So voracious are the squid that everyone usually hooks up at once,
    creating total chaos.
     
    "Every one of these things has to be gaffed," Powers says. "These things
    are flashing different colors and squirting water and ink all over the
    place.
     
    "The boat gets totally inked out and it takes two to three hours just to
    clean the vessel. But I'm not complaining. Everyone is really, really
    stoked about the whole thing." So stoked that Powers has set aside
    Wednesdays as squid-only days. The results have been mind-boggling.
     
    "When we ran our first special trip, we had absolutely phenomenal
    success," Powers boasts. "In 2 1/2 hours we had 600 squid for 42
    anglers, and given the weight of these things--they averaged about 17
    pounds apiece--we estimated that we caught 10,000 pounds of squid that
    day. It took almost three hours to unload all that squid."
     
    And another three to clean up the mess.
     
    SQUID II: THE REVENGE
     
    A squid on the hook, rising unwillingly in a state of agitation,
    changing colors spontaneously and instantaneously, whips the entire
    school into a frenzy. It's quite a spectacle, Powers says, and it
    doesn't take a marine biologist to figure out what would happen to
    anyone falling overboard.
     
    But a marine biologist did, literally, eight years ago while working as
    part of a documentary team in the Sea of Cortez near La Paz. Alex
    Kerstitch, wearing full scuba gear, took a nighttime plunge into a sea
    teeming with the same species of cephalopod in hopes of getting some
    good still footage.
     
    He barely made it out alive.
     
    His ordeal began when he felt a tug on his leg. A large squid had
    wrapped its tentacles around his swim fin and was pulling him down. He
    let the squid pull for a while, which proved to be a huge mistake as
    other squid developed an interest in what they perceived to be easy
    prey.
     
    Kerstitch kicked at the squid with his other foot and it let go. But
    another one bolted out of the darkness and attached itself to the back
    of his neck, the only part of his body not covered by neoprene or dive
    equipment.
     
    "I felt the cold embrace of tentacles with their sharp-toothed suction
    cups digging into my bare skin," he recalled in an interview not long
    afterward. "It was like somebody was throwing a cactus onto my neck."
     
    He struck this squid with his dive light and it released its grip on
    him--but stole not only the light but a gold chain Kerstitch was wearing
    around his neck.
     
    Now Kerstitch wanted out in a bad way. But as he surfaced, yet another
    squid appeared and wrapped its tentacles around his face and chest.
     
    "In total darkness, I felt the animal tugging at my mask and camera," he
    said. "Concerned over the powerful beak, I grabbed the squid firmly,
    digging my fingers into its body."
     
    The squid slid from his face to his waist and started dragging him
    deeper until finally letting go, taking with it the diver's
    decompression gauge.
     
    Kerstitch finally got his hands on the dive ladder and climbed aboard
    the boat, having suffered only a few "nasty lesions" caused by the
    thorny tentacles of the squid. "Having lost my gold chain, my dive light
    and decompression meter, I realized that this was an expensive dive," he
    later remarked.
     
    But not as costly as it could have been.